Making Din Djarin’s Helmet from The Mandalorian

This project presented a number of unique challenges, and I would say that I learned more from it than any other single build. This was started in January of 2020, and completed in March. It turned out to be good timing, as my senior year in high school was cut short around this time, when the pandemic started to take hold. It was also just after the first season of The Mandalorian aired, and replica prop can costume groups took advantage of the unexpected free time the initial quarantine brought. There were a number of individual RPF threads, but one of the more active communities was The Mandalorian Costume and Prop Builders Facebook group. This group is still a great resource for fans of any experience level, whether you want help building something or just want to buy well-made costume parts from skilled costumers. My build was informed largely from other people’s projects in this group, so I wanted to make sure I mentioned them here!

Part 1: The CAD (Bane)

Finding an accurate 3D model is an important first step: You can put all the time you want into sanding and painting, but if the proportions are incorrect or some crucial details are missing, it doesn’t matter. As you become more familiar with the object you want to replicate, it will be easy to point out what looks “right.” This is especially crucial if you plan to build a costume an organization with accuracy standards, like the 501st. At the time that I made this, there were very few 3D models that did the iconic Beskar helmet justice. After some searching, I came across Great Ape Studios on Etsy. The creator is a member of the Facebook group, and is one of the most talented digital artists I’ve seen in this hobby! He’s also released slightly tweaked updated models, which he sends to everyone who bought the previous version. I used his initial model for my project, and the new one is even better. It’s also worth noting that in the two years since these first models were made, many other creators have made equally spectacular models. If I build a second version, I’ll be using the model by RedBowProps.

Both of the creators mentioned include whole helmet and split helmet files, so if (like me) your print bed is too small to accommodate the entire thing at once, you can print it in sections that key together with little alignment pins.

My slicer of choice is Cura, and I’ll occasionally use Meshmixer if I need to split up or merge models. I printed all the parts for the helmet at 0.12 mm layer height with black Hatchbox PLA, at 195º C for the extruder and 75º C bed temperature. I’ll be honest, I don’t remember the infill % I used, but typically I’ll use around 45% for parts that I need to be strong. There were 15 parts to print, four for the dome, two for the “mandibles,” two for the back, one for the vent, and six for the “ear” pieces.

This kind of printer is like hot glue gun strapped to CNC machine. It stacks extremely thin layers of plastic, gradually building up the part. FDM printing is generally great— It’s the fastest and most accessible form of 3D printing available. But the nature of “fused deposition” means that prints will have layer lines. These layers can be as thin as your software allows you to set it, which is the vertical precision. The horizontal precision you can get from your printer is limited by the nozzle size. This is because the extruded plastic doesn’t come out like a cylinder like you might imagine, it’s layered more like a thin strip. The vertical precision will always be better than the horizontal precision, so to save yourself some time removing print lines, keep this in mind. To illustrate this, consider the sliced model below.

A few other factors are worth noting. Warping can occur due to inconsistent cooling off the printed part. My printer (like most FDM printers) has a heated bed, but I don’t have an enclosure. One of the benefits of an enclosure is a more stable temperature, as there is no circulation of outside air. Warping where the model meets the build plate is called “elephant’s foot,” where the first several layers are pushed out slightly. This can cause problems if you need multiple printed parts to fit together, so it’s best to keep warping in mind (in addition to orientation) when slicing your model.

Second, printers do not like doing sudden overhangs. One layer is printed on top of the previous layer, so you can picture a shape like a capital T (with the overhanging top line) printing incorrectly as the extruder tries to drop plastic onto nothing. Carefully add supports to your model when slicing, lest you return to your printer to find a pile of spaghetti. Most slicers have robust support options.

Finally, consider the strength of an FDM printed part. Prints are susceptible to fracturing along layer lines, but can withstand a lot more stress perpendicular to those layers. With large, relatively thin parts like those that make up the helmet, this is important to remember. This is because of our good friend, torque! The farther the applied force is from the axis of rotation (given the slightly flexible plastic), the greater the stress on the part is. This is the same reason it’s easier to break a longer stick than a shorter one of the same diameter.

Part 2: “I don’t like sand(ing).”

Now that we know how to prep our models for optimal printing, we can move on to the most tedious part of the build: Sanding! Our goal here is to create the smoothest possible surface on which to apply our glossy paint. High-gloss paint is unforgiving, and any imperfection you leave on the surface will be magnified. This is not a time to take shortcuts! This step determines how real your “chrome” will look, so take your time!

I started with a rough sand of 180 grit, on the outside surfaces of each part, before gluing. This allows you to get a head start on sanding while the other parts are printing (which with my settings took nearly 4 days). It’s also a good chance to get into any areas that will be less accessible when glued together. To adhere the parts, I used a medium thickness superglue by Bob Smith Industries, along with its accelerator. On the inside seams, I also used a product called Bondic, which is a UV-cure liquid plastic. I had a free sample of it to try out, but I don’t think it was entirely necessary for strength. It’s akin to the UV-cure adhesive used for dental appliances, each kit comes with an applicator and small UV LED to cure it. I ended up using it as a gap filler, but something like Bondo body filler would have worked just as well if not better for that. To be continued!